Cradle Mountain to Devonport, With Detours

We were up at sparrow fart for our Cradle Mountain adventure, the sort of start that makes you question your life choices until the scenery slaps you awake. A light mist diffused the view of the trees outside our room. Years ago we’d driven our own car right down to Dove Lake, but those carefree days are gone. Visitor numbers have exploded, so private cars are out and everyone now shuttles in.

Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake

Our big coach wasn’t allowed anywhere near the lake, so we transferred to a smaller bus driven by young Alex, a local lad who knew every bend, creek and photo stop. He even stopped on the bridge so we could grab shots of Pencil Pine Falls. At Dove Lake we took a short walk, long enough to fill our phones with ridiculous numbers of photos and remind ourselves why Cradle Mountain is one of Tasmania’s icons.

Cradle Mountain is one of those elusive places where luck has to be on your side to even see it. We were blessed with a clear day, but I would guess that the following day the mountain would be blanketed in mist. I’ve included a photo we took in 2004 when we were lucky. That same afternoon the mountain was invisible.

Waldheim Chalet

Next stop was Waldheim Chalet, which began life in 1912 when Gustav and Kate Weindorfer built a simple hut in the hills near Dove Lake. The Weindorfers were passionate conservationists who believed the area should be preserved for everyone, not carved up or commercialised. They lobbied hard for protection and their efforts were a major influence in the creation of Cradle Mountain–Lake St Clair National Park. Waldheim became a refuge for bushwalkers and nature lovers, and its story is woven right through the park’s early history. Learn more about their story here.

We took a short walk along the boardwalks through the rainforest. Really, these places deserve more time than we had to give.

We came across quite a few wombats in the park, most quite unconcerned by our presence.

Burnie and beer tasting

By the time we rolled into Burnie we were more than ready for lunch at Communion Brewery. The doors were still closed when we arrived which caused some consternation, but the roller door was raised and our group was the first inside. The food was very good, although the entrée was totally unnecessary. One of our new friends ordered a tasting panel of four beers, which turned out to be an interesting experiment. Nobody liked Troublemaker.

Stanley and the Nut

From Burnie we took the scenic route through rich farmland to Stanley, a town that feels like it’s waiting politely for a postcard photographer to turn up. We rode the chairlift to the top of the Nut, the sheer-sided remains of an old volcanic cone. The views were spectacular and slightly terrifying if you looked straight down. We passed on walking back down the steep track to the bus. Although I did do that (let’s see) 35 years ago? (Younger, fitter, stronger) Here’s the website.

Along the coast to Devonport

The coastal drive back via Penguin and Ulverstone was all open sky, green paddocks and waves crashing on the shore. We ended the day at the Novotel in Devonport with rooms overlooking the harbour where the Spirit of Tasmania docks.

Dinner was at the nearby Elegance Lounge. My seafood linguini was a mixed adventure. The linguini was gluey, but the seafood was excellent. Others raved about the vegetables served with their chicken. Sadly the drinks service was a shambles and took the shine off an otherwise lovely evening. Still, when your day includes ancient forests, craft beer and a volcano, you can forgive a lot. 🍻🌲🌋